Balmer
Sarah and I went to Baltimore last weekend. Short version? Hella fun. Long version? Here we go:
We got up with Charles on Saturday morning at his usual time, aka 0-dark-30. We played with him a good bit, he jumped on my belly, I almost threw up, just laughs galore. Meanwhile, Sarah got all packed up and ready to go, and then dropped Charles off with her parents whilst I showered, did a little ironing, and packed.
She got back, we both used the bathroom like responsible adults, and got on the road. We were in East Baltimore in just over an hour, which was pretty remarkable, both the speed of the drive as well as East Baltimore itself. The place goes very suddenly from “horrifically seedy” to “heck of yuppie” in approximately a block, something we were to discover later in our walking travels.
We found reasonable parking ($20 for 24 hours) near our hotel, got checked in, and decided our best option for fun and frolic was to go to Fell’s Point. We had in fact selected our hotel in the belief that it was reasonably near Fell’s Point, but it was technically closest to the Inner Harbor. Either way, everything was pretty much in walking distance. So we hoofed it into Fell’s.
We expected to see a bunch of fun little shops and restaurants, and while there were a few of the former and a bunch of the latter, what there was more than anything else was bars. Sadly, few of them were my speed (quiet, probably expensive, full of dapper gentlemen in ascots and expensive sports coats and plasticine blondes with large white teeth), but we ventured into one that we had a coupon for from our hotel package, mostly because Sarah had to pee. It was named Max’s Taproom, and it was unpleasant. Loud, filled with post-graduate D-bags, and featuring skanky waitresses attempting to cash in on Hooters-style garb.
Hooters sounds like a great idea on paper; decent food, particularly good wings, and hot waitresses wandering around in tight clothing delivering the grub. Unfortunately, in practice, you leave the place unsatisfied. I’ve never been served by a waitress at a Hooters that had, you know, Hooters. They try and synthesize them by wearing brassieres that would be tight on a Chinese gymnast, but meh. Plus they wear enough makeup that you really have no idea what their facial features look like. Is that a mole, or a goiter? Who can say? And Max’s had nothing but Hooters cast-offs. It was depressing.
HW drained her urine tank and we scuttled out of there without having purchased a drink, for which I felt guilty a bit, until I had to scrape my feet on the sidewalk a few times to remove nasty beer stickum. We went across the street to the Greene Turtle to cool our heels, as we had more discount coupons for that. Went inside, saw a waitress who invited us to sit wherever, we said we’d be outside at a table that just opened up, and she said she’d be right out. So we sat outside for ten minutes until she finally poked her out of a nearby door and said, “Has anybody helped you?”
“No, not since you said you’d be right out,” I didn’t say.
“Not yet!” I actually said, cheerily, because I find in life that there is absolutely no sense in irritating someone who could spit herpes simplex-laden saliva into your drink if she senses her tip will be anything less than 25%.
The coupons specified that we could get a two-for-one drink deal if we ordered identical drinks, and this is where the complexity began: I have decided, as a result of tipping the scales north of 250 pounds, to go back on the low-carb diet. The only booze you can have (and they don’t recommend you have any) is straight stuff, because theoretically all the carbs in it have been turned to alcohol, which I guess doesn’t count as carbs for whatever reason despite the fact that it’s still pure calories. Whatever. Sarah agreed to drink whatever I planned to order, so I got us two vodka martinis. Then I drank hers, because she thought it tasted like brake fluid. I think she then ordered a beer. Might have been a rum-and-Coke. I honestly do not recall vividly, because if you’re keeping score I’d had most of two vodka martinis to this point.
I had a third, while we enjoyed some wings, and then asked for the bill. We had to do a bit of haggling with the check; the first time she brought it to us, none of our discounts had been added. The second time, the discounts had been applied to the wrong drink (costing us $3, but hey man, that’s three double cheeseburgers), but the third time, all was well, so I threw some cash at the bill and we went a-wandering yet again.
We tried to find some shops and things to look at, but aside from a gallery of photographs that were retouched to look like paintings (which I guess qualifies as art, in the same way that Photoshop-filtered puppy pictures are art) and a jewelry store where HW bought me a nice silver ring, there wasn’t much. Just bar after bar filled with drunks. Not that I’m much complaining; I’d had three martinis, after all, after not having had a drink in about a week, and was walking on air, or would have been had I not been so fat that the air was unwilling to support my heft.
We wandered north up Broadway a bit, and were bemused to discover that the quality of shops went from “10% off summer Silver” to “25% off all Hemp wear!” to “75% of weavs” in about a block. North of that, there be monsters. We came about smartly and headed back south.
After walking some more blisters into our feet, we decided to find a place to eat, and here was where the brilliant luck occurred: we had another coupon from our hotel good for $50 off of any one of three restaurants, and so we selected “Kali’s Garden,” which sadly has no website other than a few google links that seem to think it’s a Middle Eastern restaurant, which it is most definitely not.
Kali’s Garden is gourmet American cuisine done right. A good dose of seafood, of course; I had raw oysters that were YUMMMMMM, and bouillabaisse that was disappointing, although I don’t think that was the restaurant’s fault as much as me realizing that I don’t much care for bouillabaisse. Sarah had a filet that was like butter, although filet is rather hard to screw up. Even my incompetent hands can cook tenderloin to a state of scrumptiousness.
The service was, as you might expect at a place charging upwards of $32 for a basic entree, spectacular and friendly. Sarah closed the meal with crème brûlée that was quite fantastic, although again it’s difficult to screw up, while I polished off my 7th martini of the day and a free glass of champagne. Then we stumbled back to the hotel.
It was early yet, only about 7:30pm; we were tired of walking, but still too ramped up to sleep. So we wandered the Inner Harbor, did a spate of shopping (we bought a little wind-up crab for Charles, which he inexplicably hates because once it’s wound up, it can’t be turned off), and decided the sensible thing to do was go back to the hotel and get more drinks.
The hotel featured three on-site establishments: a Ruth’s Chris franchise, something called “McCormick and Schmicks” or something like that (it seemed profoundly shady, and we avoided it) and a small bistro called “My Panini.” We figured our best shot at cheap fare was at My Panini, particularly since we discovered it had a functioning bar. We wandered in and sat, and a nice gentleman handed us two menus. We decided what we wanted to snack on and drink, and waited for service.
And waited.
And waited a weeeee bit longer.
Finally a breathless young man came over, apologized profusely, took our drink and food orders, and then sprinted back to the bar and disappeared. We watched the bartender, not 15 feet from us, pour our drinks and sit them on the edge of the bar to get nice and warm, and waited for our waiter, who finally came back and delivered my salad (disappointing) and the drinks. We drank those and chatted, and he came back after a bit to get a further order, which we gave him, and he disappeared, such that we finally tired of waiting and simply got up to the bar to get our own drinks and place our own orders. On the plus side, we didn’t get charged for something like 3 of the 5 drinks we had, so I didn’t undertip too harshly.
We headed back upstairs and passed out like a hurricane.
The next morning, we planned to go see the Maryland Science Center, so we chugged some tylenol against our staggering hangovers and went downstairs to My Panini (where we were eligible for free breakfast) to fortify ourselves. We were told upon entrance that our coupons were good for a free cold breakfast, which amounted to cereal and fruit (neither of which I could eat), or $5 off of the hot breakfast, bringing the price down to $6.99 per person, plus drinks, which were exorbitant: $2.19 for a cup of coffee that tasted of seawater? What is this insanity?
My Panini, I’ll say this once, and you should listen: suck it. Your prices are ridiculous, the food is disappointing, and your service is an abomination before the Lord.
After this disheartening experience, we decided that the Maryland Science Center was too great a task for the day, so we decided to wander the Inner Harbor in daylight, do some more shopping, take some pictures of various ocean-going vessels, and partake of as many tasty snacks as we could. It was a limited success; there were certainly plenty of people wandering around, though many of them were bums hassling the tourists for “spare” change. We did get to “enjoy” a “juggler” who did a minimum of juggling and a maximum of insulting his audience in a way that was 10% funny and 90% awkward. I’m glad he spent the first 5 minutes of his act reminding everyone that he’d appeared on Jay Leno and David Letterman and yet had time to come down and do his routine for the moron tourists of Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. That really made us want to open our wallets. I don’t think the guy made 50 cents all day, which is definitely not nearly as good as when the Y-chromes went to Baltimore my senior year and did an impromptu five-song concert in the middle of the…campus? whatever it is- and netted a small fortune, enough to keep us pretty much hammered the rest of the day, which was a spectacular idea since we had a concert that evening and I ended up throwing up on a frat couch at the after-party and got everybody kicked out.
But that is another story for another time.
Once we got our fill of wandering, we tried to find a nice little bistro for snacks, but unfortunately there’s nothing in the Inner Harbor but chain restaurants, so we settled for a Houlihan’s where we had Diet Cokes and mediocre spinach dip.
And then we drove home.
